Sometimes when you are trying to get good at something, and really excel, you have to start over and re-evaluate everything, a return to basics if you will. I decided to re-read the instructive sections in Tartine and bake my next loaf as if it were my first.
That said, I couldn’t completely start from scratch of course, but I’ve left out a lot of “experiments” I’ve done recently and went straight to the basic ingredients. One thing I kept from my experiments is my percentage of increased leaven: 25%. Now this is higher than Tartine’s formula, by 5%, but my excuse is my elevation is almost a mile up and I still believe a little extra leaven is required to get the bread to rise properly. The trick here is to walk that fine line of adding more leaven to increase rise, but not increase the sour flavor of the bread. Not an easy task.
Prepare the leaven – 11:30pm
The night before, when your sourdough starter is at a nice and ripe stage (see the image below), mix the following and set out on the counter overnight.
- 55g ripe starter (again, here I’ve increased the leaven by 5g over the Tartine formula)
- 100g all purpose flour
- 100g whole wheat flour
- 200g H2O @ 80ºF
Mix the flour and water, autolyse – 9:00am
When I wake early on the weekend to start my bake I start things properly, with a cappuccino. I am Italian after all. The cappuccino below was made on my trusty Rancilio Silvia, which has been going strong making at least one cappuccino a day for a good 8 years. Having your own home espresso machine is an indulgence I don’t take for granted. My wife often complains that I sometimes spend more time with my espresso machine than sleeping.
Now, check on your leaven and see how it has done overnight. It should have visible bubbles on the top and as you pull a bit back and take a sniff, it should smell a little like vinegar. Good, we’re ready to go.
- 250g (25%) of your new leaven
- 800g (80%) white bread flour
- 200g (20%) whole wheat bread flour
- 20g (2%) salt
- 700g H2O @ 80ºF and 50g H2O (75%) in reserve for next step
- Add 250g leaven to your large mixing bowl
- Pour in 700g H2O @ 80ºF and mix with your hands until the leaven is completely dissolved
- Add 800g white flour and 100g whole wheat flour and mix with your hand until all the dry bits of flour are gone
- Cover your bowl with a towel and let autolyse for 30 minutes
- After 30 minutes, add 20g salt to the dough and slowly pour your 80ºF water on top. Squeeze the dough with your hand to incorporate the salt throughout
- Now reach your hand under the dough and pull the side up and over onto itself. Continue to do this as you spin the bowl; grab, pull, and push. Do this until the dough comes together and becomes super sticky and comes together
- Transfer your dough to your plastic or glass container, set a timer for 30 minutes
Bulk Fermentation – 10:00am
During the bulk fermentation step you want to do 6 turns spaced out 30 minutes apart. The first 4 turns should be pretty vigorous, you really want to grab the dough from the bottom of the container, pull it up high, and then tuck it in on the other side.
- 10:00am – Turn 1
- 10:30am – Turn 2
- 11:00am – Turn 3
- 11:30am – Turn 4
- 12:00pm – Turn 5
- 12:30am – Turn 6
- 12:30am – 2:00pm – Rest on counter untouched
Step 7 above was needed as I noticed my dough was just not developing fast enough. If the temperature in your kitchen is on the lower end (low 70ºF’s) it might take a bit longer. You can tell when your dough is ready when it’s risen about 30% and you see little air bubbles throughout. Another test I do is to lift the container, tilt it to the side, and see if the dough releases easily from the sides of the container. If it does, then it indicates it’s developed enough and is strong.
This dough felt nice and strong at around 2:00pm, I could see it come off the sides of the container easily and it had risen to the top almost touching my plastic cover. Here you can see the pockets of yeast activity throughout:
Pre-shape – 2:05pm
Take the dough out of the container onto your unfloured work surface and sprinkler some flour on top before dividing. Divide the mass into two equal halves and flour the top of each half. Flip one half over using your dough knife and your hand, then gently bend the 4 sides of the dough from under to the top. Using the knife flip the mass so the new seam is on the counter and spin it a few times to create a bit of tension. Set a timer for 35 minutes and let it bench rest.
Shape – 2:40pm
The resting dough should have spread out some on the counter. Flour the top of one of the boules and flip it over with your lightly floured hand and dough knife. Take the part of the dough that’s closest to you and fold it up and over in half. Take the part that’s to the right, stretch it out as far as it will stretch, and fold it up and to the left. Repeat with the left side and the side of the dough farthest from you. Then take the edge that’s closest to you, pull it up and over again towards the back. When doing this last move you will lift the entire dough up and over until the seam side is now down on your work surface.
Spin the dough using your two hands to shape into a boule. As you slightly pick up the dough and spin it, the bottom snags the unfloured work surface and creates tension. I do this several times to create a very taught surface on the top of the boule sometimes small air bubbles will be visible.
Proof – 2:55pm
Place towels into small mixing bowls, or bannetons, and dust with white rice flour. These baskets will hold the dough as they proof in the fridge overnight.
For one of these boules I decided to try out a rectangular banneton I’ve had sitting in my cupboard for some time. I essentially placed the boule in the banneton like usual, but because of the shape, it ended up forming more of an elongated shape (a batard) than a pure round boule. Place both of the baskets into the fridge for an overnight proof, a chance to strengthen and build taste complexity.
Score + Bake – 7:30am
Gather your tools:
- Razor blade for scoring
- Parchment paper
- Pizza peel
- Pizza stone
- Oven mit
- Lodge Combo Cooker
In the morning get your oven ready: place your pizza stone in your oven at the middle position and turn it on to 510ºF for a 1 hour pre-heat.
Take one of your loaves out of the fridge, cut a piece of parchment paper and place on top of the basket. I then place a the pizza peel on top of the parchment paper (and basket) and invert the whole thing quickly to get the dough out of the bowl and onto the paper and peel.
Get your razor blade out and score the top of the loaf to allow the bread to expand while rising in the oven. For the rectangular loaf I did a single slash down the middle starting from the very top to the bottom. You want to try to score at a very horizontal angle to the dough, I’d say around 40º.
Place the dough into the combo cooker and turn the heat down to 440ºF, cook for 25 minutes. I made this loaf just barely small enough to fit in my combo cooker. I got worried after I took this out of the basket and saw how much it had risen. Whew.
After baking for 25 minutes, open the oven and remove the top of the combo cooker (be extremely careful here to not burn yourself) and cook for an additional 35 minutes at 435ºF. These times reflect my constant tinkering, trying to get the crust to darken but not quite burn. I’ve noticed one thing is pretty consistent with new bakers, they always start by undercooking loaves and as they continue to bake they get darker, darker, and darker still.
There’s just something exciting about taking the lid off your dutch oven and finding excellent oven spring underneath.
Crust: Super thin, shatters on every bite. The color is perfect, a bit of scorching on the top with light colors inside the fissure. You can also see below I’ve managed to obtain some blistering on the outside — excellent.
Crumb: Nice and airy! Finally some great yeast activity inside and the upward movement is very welcome indeed. The bread rose up nice and high and I just love the little “hook” on top where the score ran down the center.
Taste: A slight hint of sour, just enough to let you know this is a sourdough loaf. The overnight proof added some excellent complexity without overpowering the rest of the flavor of the loaf.
A return to basics was one of the most enlightening things I’ve done recently with my baking. I’ve realized that there aren’t any secret tricks to coaxing your bread into rising high with an open crumb, you simply need to trust your experience, intuition, and method.